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Stories from the Nakasendo

Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya

A humble teahouse where the spirit of the old Nakasendo is still quietly alive.
Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya on the Nakasendo Trail

Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya may sound like a tongue twister at first, but its name tells a simple story. Ichikokutochi refers to the local place name, which is said to come from a large horse chestnut tree that once stood nearby. Tateba Chaya means a traditional teahouse where travelers could rest during their journey.

In other words, this was a resting place for travelers along the Nakasendo during the Edo period.

The traditional exterior of Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya

Located almost exactly halfway between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, the teahouse remains open to visitors free of charge. Preserved in its old atmosphere, the building offers a rare glimpse into the world of travelers from more than 250 years ago.

What makes this place particularly remarkable is that it is maintained by just a handful of local volunteers. With the exception of the New Year holiday period, they continue to open the teahouse for walkers throughout the year.

The irori hearth still burns, filling the interior with the gentle scent of wood smoke, while the traditional wooden structure has been carefully protected for generations.
Irori hearth inside Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya

As a side note, one of the people most responsible for making this humble teahouse famous is undoubtedly Joanna Lumley. Many visitors become excited when they notice her photograph displayed inside, recognizing the location from her BBC travel documentary.

During the peak walking season, more than 300 travelers may visit in a single day. In the heat of summer and the quiet winter months, however, the teahouse returns to a much more peaceful pace, allowing visitors to experience the timeless atmosphere of the old Nakasendo.

Quiet atmosphere of Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya
Written by Ryo Yoshimura — National Licensed Guide Interpreter and Nakasendo Curator. [Inquire Privately] →
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